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A first-time importer’s guide to working with a garment factory

The whole path of a first garment import, from choosing a factory to goods in your warehouse: what to prepare before you make contact, how to brief, how to compare FOB quotes, sampling, payment, inspection, documents, freight and customs, and the first-order mistakes that cost the most.

SR Santosh Rijal
Founder, Trishakti Apparel
Published Updated 8 min read

Your first import is the one where the gaps show: a quote that left out freight, a sample nobody washed, a shipment that reached port before anyone had arranged customs clearance. None of it is complicated once you see the whole path. This guide walks through it in order, from the work you do before contacting a factory to cartons in your warehouse, and links to our deeper guides at each step.

What should you prepare before contacting a garment factory?

Factories answer prepared buyers first, and preparation also protects you. Have ready a product definition, quantities per style and per colour, a target landed cost, a date the goods must be in your warehouse, your destination markets, your importer set-up, and a budget for samples and inspection. In detail:

  • A product definition. A tech pack, or at least a reference garment, photos, target fabric and a size chart. What a tech pack needs to contain.
  • Quantities per style and per colour. Minimums apply per style and colour, so check your range against them before you ask for quotes.
  • A target landed cost, not just a target unit price (more on this below).
  • A date the goods must be in your warehouse, so the factory can tell you honestly whether it is achievable.
  • Your destination markets. They decide labelling rules, duty and the origin paperwork you will need.
  • Your importer set-up. For the EU and Great Britain that means an EORI number; elsewhere, your market’s equivalent. Also a customs broker or freight forwarder you can call.
  • A budget for samples and inspection, which are real costs on a first order.

What should your first email to a factory include?

A good first message fits on a page: who you are and where you sell, the product with tech pack or references attached, fabric and weight (or “please advise”), size range, quantity per style and colour, decoration, labels and packing, destination, target delivery date and the Incoterm you want quoted.

Ask the factory to state what the price includes and what it assumes. A factory that replies with questions is usually a better sign than one that replies with only a number.

What does an FOB price cover, and how do you compare quotes?

Quotes are only comparable when they are built on the same specification and the same Incoterm. Under FOB, the seller clears the goods for export and delivers them on board the vessel at the named port of shipment; from there, costs and risk are yours. FOB applies to sea freight only, so an air shipment should be quoted FCA.

We quote EXW Gaindakot, FOB Kolkata for sea, and FCA Kathmandu for air. Incoterms explained.

Cost In an FOB price?
Fabric, trims, cutting, sewing, finishing Yes
Your labels, hangtags, polybags, cartons Yes, if specified in the quote
Decoration (print, embroidery) Only if the quote says so
Inland transport to the port and export clearance Yes
Development samples and courier Usually charged separately
Ocean freight and cargo insurance No
Destination port and handling charges No
Import duty and import VAT or sales tax No
Customs broker fees No
Delivery from port to your warehouse No
Third-party inspection No, unless agreed

Landed cost is the unit price plus everything below the line, divided by the pieces that arrive in sellable condition. A cheaper quote from a country your market charges more duty on can be the more expensive product once landed. Ask each supplier which origin paperwork it can issue, and ask your broker what duty that origin attracts for your HS code.

Why should you never skip the sample?

Never skip the sample. The approved pre-production sample becomes the standard your bulk order is made and inspected against, so check it properly: measure it against your spec, wash it, look at the inside. Plan for at least one revision round. What happens between sample and bulk, stage by stage.

Five colleagues wearing printed tops made in our factory, trying the sample on across sizes
Checking the fit of our samples across sizes.

How should you pay a garment factory on a first order?

A common structure is a deposit to start production and the balance against inspection results or shipping documents. Two rules for first orders: do not pay 100% upfront to a supplier you have not verified, and confirm bank details by phone or video, never by email alone.

For larger orders, a Letter of Credit shifts the trust onto the banks and the paperwork. How to pay a new factory safely.

When should the goods be inspected, and to what standard?

Book a final inspection before the goods leave the factory, and tie the balance to its result. AQL 2.5 for major defects is the common apparel standard, checked against the approved sample and spec. If you use a third-party inspector, give them the approved sample reference, the measurement chart and the packing instructions, not just the order number.

Which documents arrive with your goods?

Expect a commercial invoice, a packing list, the transport document (bill of lading for sea, air waybill for air) and the origin document your market needs for any duty preference. Customs cross-checks them against each other and against the goods, so descriptions, quantities and values must match.

Ask for draft documents before shipment and check them. Every document in a garment shipment.

What decides how smoothly freight and customs go at your end?

Once the goods are on board, three things decide how smoothly they clear: your importer registration, such as an EORI number in the EU or Great Britain; your broker’s brief, given before the goods arrive; and the duty and import tax your market charges. In detail:

  1. Your registration. The European Commission states that an EORI number is mandatory for clearing customs operations in the EU, including import, issued by the customs authority of the EU country where you are established. In Great Britain, HMRC issues a GB EORI to businesses established there that move goods in or out or make customs declarations.
  2. Your broker’s brief. Give them the product description, fibre composition, HS code, invoice value, Incoterm and the origin document before the goods arrive. The broker lodges the declaration; you remain responsible for what it says.
  3. Duty and import tax. Duty depends on the HS code, the customs value and the garment’s origin, including any trade preference your market gives that origin. Most markets also charge VAT, GST or sales tax at import. In the UK, for example, import VAT is calculated on the customs value plus any duty and any onward transport and insurance to the first destination in the UK, and VAT-registered businesses can use postponed VAT accounting to declare and reclaim it on the same VAT return.

By sea, allow roughly 6–8 weeks from our gate to Europe, then clearance and delivery. Samples go by express courier, usually 3–7 days; urgent orders can fly from Kathmandu in about a week.

Which first-order mistakes cost the most?

The costliest first-order mistakes are skipping or rushing the sample, ordering too many styles and colours, comparing unit prices instead of landed costs, approving changes by message, leaving customs until the goods arrive, forgetting labelling rules, and leaving no buffer in the calendar.

  • Skipping or rushing the sample. Bulk copies the sample, including its faults.
  • Too many styles and colours. Minimums stack; a tight first range lets you order properly on your best sellers.
  • Comparing unit prices instead of landed costs, or comparing quotes on different Incoterms.
  • Approving changes by message. Every change to fabric, fit or trims should be a new, dated version of the spec.
  • Leaving customs until the goods arrive. Registration, broker and HS code should be settled before shipment.
  • Forgetting labelling rules. Care, composition and origin labels are cheapest to get right before labels are ordered.
  • No buffer in the calendar. A late sample approval moves everything behind it.

How does Trishakti Apparel work with first-time importers?

We are a cut-and-sew knitwear factory in Gaindakot, Nepal, with 150+ machines and capacity of 40,000–50,000 pieces a month. The minimum is 200 pieces per style and colour, with 1,000 pieces in total per order, and we welcome new importers who want to start with a trial order. We send photo and status updates at every stage on WhatsApp or email, inspect in-line and to AQL 2.5 at the end, and welcome your third-party inspector.

We make patterns and grading in Optitex CAD. We source fabric to your spec from established mills, and you choose: our regular mills, OEKO-TEX-certified fabric, or a mill you nominate. We confirm the mill and its country before you order. Payment is staged, or by L/C, with balances against inspection and shipping documents. Tell us what you are planning and we will tell you what we need to quote it.

Frequently asked

Do I need a customs broker for my first garment import?
Usually yes. A commercial import needs a customs declaration with the right HS code, customs value and origin claim, and most first-time importers appoint a customs broker or a freight forwarder with a customs team to lodge it. Brief them before the goods ship, not when the vessel arrives.
Do I need an EORI number to import clothing?
In the EU and in Great Britain, yes for business imports. The European Commission says an EORI number is mandatory for all customs operations in the EU, including import, and you apply to the customs authority of the EU country where you are established. In Great Britain you apply to HMRC. Other markets have their own importer registration; your broker will tell you which.
How long does a first garment order take from enquiry to warehouse?
At our factory, samples take 7–14 days after we review your tech pack and bulk takes 25–30 days after you approve the sample. Add courier time for samples, your own review time, and roughly 6–8 weeks by sea to Europe, and a first order typically takes three to four months from first contact to delivery.
Should I choose FOB or EXW for my first order?
FOB (or FCA for air) is usually simpler for a first order, because the factory handles export clearance and delivers to the port or carrier, and your forwarder takes over from there. EXW puts export formalities and inland transport on you, which is hard to manage from abroad.
What is the minimum order for a first import?
It depends on the factory and the product. Ours is 200 pieces per style and colour, with at least 1,000 pieces in total per order, so a trial order is welcome. Minimums apply per style and colour, so a first range of two styles in three colours means six lots of at least 200 pieces, 1,200 in all.
SR

About the author

Santosh Rijal runs Trishakti Apparel, the export knitwear factory his family built on three decades in Nepal’s fashion trade. He writes about sourcing, duty and production from the factory floor in Gaindakot.

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Sources & last verified

Page facts checked

We link every trade claim to the body that publishes it — official sources first. Rules change; if you spot something out of date, tell us.

  1. 01 Economic Operators Registration and Identification number (EORI): mandatory for all customs operations in the EU, including import; apply to the customs authority of the EU country where you are established European Commission – DG TAXUD · official · checked 27 Sept 2026
  2. 02 Get an EORI number: needed to move goods between Great Britain and other countries, make customs declarations or use customs systems; business must be established in GB HM Revenue & Customs (GOV.UK) · official · checked 27 Sept 2026
  3. 03 VAT on goods imported into the UK: value for import VAT includes transport and insurance to the first UK destination and any customs duty; VAT-registered businesses can use postponed VAT accounting HM Revenue & Customs (GOV.UK) · official · checked 27 Sept 2026
  4. 04 Incoterms® 2020 — FOB for sea and inland waterway only; FCA for any mode, including air and containers International Chamber of Commerce (ICC) · official · checked 24 Sept 2026

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